You should have your equipment installed by an expert. A knowledgeable person, who knows the electric code, can do wiring and simple plumbing can do the installation, but you will have to know what your doing. Installation may require expert assistance and must adhere to local codes and regulations, not only to obey the law but to make sure you don't void your insurance by installing equipment illegally or without permits. We recommend that you have a contractor do your installation or, at the very least, have him provide professional advice. It is up to you to make sure the installation is done correctly.
A standby set is a backup to normal utility power. Standby units are used only when your utility power is not available and will not be used frequently. Many stand by generators run at 3600 RPM and are not designed for constant daily use. Another word for standby is "emergency". If you need a standby power generator, use the generators standby or emergency rating as a guide.
1800 rpm water cooled diesel units operate on average 12,000 to 30,000 hours before major maintenance is required.
1800 rpm water cooled gas units normally operate 6,000 to 10,000 hours because they are built on a lighter duty gasoline engine block. Gas units burn hotter (higher BTU of the fuel) so you will see generally see somewhat shorter lives than the diesel units
3600 rpm air-cooled gas units are normally replaced – not overhauled at 500 to 1500 hours. These are "stand-by" generators, not intended to be run long hours or very often.
In simple terms it’s like operating your car at 90 mph, versus 45mph – at 45mph your car will last longer, is quieter, less maintenance and longer life. Most 3600 rpm units are twin cylinder air cooled lawn mower engines, while the water cooled 1800 rpm units are comparable to those found in forklift and tractor engines. The bottom line is the 1800 rpm water cooled units will last longer, offer less maintenance problems and be more fuel efficient. In addition, 1800 RPM generators are designed to be rebuilt, 3600 RPM units are designed to replaced and are much lower in cost (most of the time). Some 3600 RPM stationary units and most RV and commercial power units can be rebuilt at least one or more times but this process is not inexpensive.
Engine block. For long life and quiet operation we recommend four cycle, liquid cooled, industrial duty diesel engines.
Air or liquid cooling. Air-cooled engines require a tremendous amount of air and may require ducting and they are somewhat noisier. Liquid cooling offers quieter operation, more even temperature control and therefore longer engine life. Modern air cooled engines are suitable for many applications, especially short run, portable or standby uses.
Intake Air. All quality generators have intake air filters with replaceable filter elements. Today even small portables have replaceable air cleaners.
Mufflers. Most generator come equipped with an industrial grade muffler. One good investment is a residential or critical muffler that is much quieter and lasts longer. All enclosed generators should be equipped with at least a residential and preferably a critical muffler.
Lubrication. The lubrication system should have a full flow, spin-on oil filter. Larger generators should have a filter bypass. Most generators today have low oil alarms and shutdowns, make sure the generator you select has this valuable feature, its simply a must have protection.
Major brand of engine. We do not know why people would even consider an inferior "scrap metal" unit or "off brand" engine, you will not be able to obtain the necessary parts, service and support. Many engines come with a box of spare parts including pistons, rings and bearings because your going to need them all. Save yourself some grief and buy a major brand of engine. If you buy a junk engine, we wont service it and most other reputable dealers won't either.
Electrical system and circuit breakers. Standard 12 volt system should include at least the following: 1) Quality starter motor and battery. Larger generators should include a charging alternator with a solid state voltage regulator. 2) Larger diesel units should come with a pre-heat switch and all generators should have a start/stop switch. 3) Al generators should have a safety shutdown system to protect the engine in case of oil pressure loss, generator over-speed or over-crank and high water (or operating) temperature. 4) System circuit breaker to protect the generator. On small systems and portables there should be a circuit breaker on each circuit.
AC generator should have a 4-pole revolving field. An automatic voltage regulator will provide “clean” power. Normal utility power is +/- 6% voltage regulation; most generators are even better ranging from +/- 5% or .25 % and even better. Most modern generators offer AVR – Automatic Voltage Regulation or some other proprietary brand of voltage regulation and can be safely used with modern electronics and computers.
Lifetime lubricated bearing. Cheap generators are not supplied with these bearings. They often require complete disassembly every two or three years for bearing replacement. Most modern power alternators, or generator ends, are provided with industrial quality lifetime lubricated bearings
Additional factors, which may affect efficient operation of your generator, are high altitude and high air temperature. These conditions will lower generator output. You must take into account your elevation, normal and extremes of temperature and other factors. Ask your sales engineer for de-rating information. Allow three (3) percent loss in efficiency for each 1000 feet above sea level minimum. Check the manufactures specifications and use the de-rating factor they specify. Nothing is worse than buying a generator that is too small.
We strongly recommend that the installation be performed by a licensed electrical or mechanical contractor. They have the tools, the know-how and an understanding of regulations and local codes. Their expertise will save you money in the long run. Should you chose to perform the installation yourself, PLEASE do your homework before tackling the job and obtain the proper permits required by your local jurisdiction. While all GenSets have some basic requirements, each brand and model has unique installation requirements. Also, it is extremely important to have all relative codebooks for reference and to adhere to strictly adhere to the laws which were designed for your safety. Most important of all, your system must be inspected before starting to prevent fires and explosions from improper installation.
Air inlet for combustion and engine cooling.
Outlets for exhaust and hot cooling air.
Fuel, battery and AC electrical connections.
Remember to monitor for carbon monoxide!
Rigid, level mounting platforms (many sets are already mounted on a steel skid base).
Open accessibility for easy service.
Isolation from living space. Keep noise and exhaust away from occupied areas.
Space and equipment to extinguish a fire. Minimize the possibility of fire danger.
Remember, GenSets move on their vibration mounts. Allow clearance to compensate and use flex-joints on all lines and connections.
To prevent water ingestion, fuel should be drawn out of the top of the tank with the pick-up extending to no more than two inches from the bottom. Fuel storage tanks must have leakage protection and many jurisdictions require spill basins. Above ground tanks are recommended and cheaper but you must check your local codes before installing a tank. The safest tanks are double walled with alarms. These alarms are simple and well worth the investment to avoid a possible fuel spill, and significant clean-up costs. If the tank is mounted above the generator set, use a fuel shut-off valve, so that you can work on the fuel system without the fuel-siphoning out. It also allows you to cut-off fuel flow in the event of line breakage.
The GenSet must be a minimum of 3 ft from combustible material (NFPA 37). Leave at least 3 ft (or more if the housing and instructions for your particular unit) all around the GenSet enclosure for access to the inside (NEC Art. 110-26a, Art. 110-26b). The GenSet must be at least 5 ft from any opening (window, door, vent, etc.) in a wall, and the exhaust must not be able to accumulate in any occupied area. See figure below.
INDOOR MOUNTING
We do not recommend locating generator sets indoors in residential applications and small commercial and industrial applications. The primary reason to avoid indoor installation is safety. Carbon monoxide gas is odorless, colorless and can accumulate in closed spaces. You can walk into a room full of carbon monoxide and be overcome. A gas leak in space attached to your home can kill you and your family.
In addition to safety, it costs more to install a GenSet indoors than for the same GenSet provided with the factory weatherproof housing. When a GenSet is installed indoors, the building must be designed carefully to handle ventilation to remove heat and any fumes due to fuel, exhaust, lubrication and starting batteries. The radiator must be provided with a duct adapter that interfaces properly with louvers on an outside wall of the building. Adequate air intake flow must be available not only for the radiator fan but also for cooling the alternator. The engine exhaust piping and muffler must be tight to prevent any leaks that would allow dangerous carbon monoxide to accumulate inside the building.
Generally, the room or space in which the generator operates, should not exceed 100 F. We recommend keeping it under 85 F if possible. Generator installations require an intake of cool, clean air and an outlet vent for hot air. Whenever possible the cool air should be drawn over the alternator (or generator end) to help keep the alternator cool. The size of the space affects the room temperature (the smaller the space the generator runs in, the higher the room temperature is likely to be), smaller spaces may require ducting. The size of the generator and the outside air temperature or climate must be considered. In an indoor installation, increasing these vent sizes may cool the room down to acceptable levels and ensure “positive” airflow. Positive airflow is cool, clean air in and hot air out, as opposed to circulating hot air inside the room. Generator cooling fans move moisture as well as air. Moist air is corrosive to a GenSets copper windings, so make sure air inlets are positioned to minimize moisture intake.
Automatic fire suppression systems may also be required. Check with your local fire codes. You should also contact your fire insurance provider to determine if an indoor GenSet is even permitted.
Installation engineered to meet all the above requirements and all safety codes can still become a hazard later. For an installation to remain safe, it has to be regularly inspected and maintained to ensure that leaks or other dangerous conditions do not develop with age or use. Sites that do not have a knowledgeable maintenance staff trained to support an indoor generator set should not install a unit inside a building.
Another factor is the initial cost. It is impossible to construct a building to house a GenSet at a cost as low as the factory housing that can be ordered with the GenSet. And even if the building already exists, the design expense and costs to adapt it for a generator set installation usually will exceed the enclosure cost available from the GenSet manufacturer. For a small GenSet the cost of an open unit with duct adaptor and exhaust pipe kit is as little as $600 less than the same GenSet with the factory weather housing. The additional costs for just the exhaust thimble and louvers exceed that savings.
Please read Policy, Warranties and Disclaimers. You as the buyer and user of generators sold by GeneratorJoe assume all risk and liability in connection with all equipment purchased
AC CONNECTIONS
Connecting the generator to your electrical distribution system is a job for a qualified, licensed and bonded electrician who is familiar with local building codes. Electricity is dangerous, respect it.
TRANSFER SWITCHES & SWITCHGEAR
All generator systems require a circuit breaker and a distribution panel. The circuit breaker protects the generator set from short circuit and unbalanced electrical loads. The distribution panel divides and routes the connected loads and includes circuit breakers to protect these loads. Stand-by systems also require a main circuit breaker between the utility source and the transfer panel. The transfer panel switches power from the utility to the GenSet and back so that both aren't on at the same time. Residential, commercial and industrial generators are equipped with auto-start to allow connection to auto-transfer switches.
Unless you have no other electric service (utility power), you must install a transfer switch. Normally the transfer switch must be the same size as the service panel or a sub-panel off the service pane. The transfer panel switches power from the utility to the GenSet and back so that both aren't on at the same time. Auto-start, auto-transfer systems are available and are relatively inexpensive. We can help you determine what you need.
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